Tromsø is a vibrant city in northern Norway where winter is the darkest and coldest season of the year. In late September you get the first sign of snow on the mountain peaks, hinting at the season to come while gradually making way for winter activities. Skiing, dogsledding, snowshoeing and seeing the Northern Lights (aurora borealis) are just some of the Arctic recreations it brings. The winter holidays are lively and joyful, which can in part be attributed to Tromsø being the world's northernmost university town. During Christmas, the city decks itself out in decorations & turns into a real-life Hallmark movie. On New Year's Eve, fireworks erupt from every direction while people fill the streets in celebration of the new year.
Since Tromsø is above the Arctic Circle, the city experiences both polar nights and the midnight sun. Polar nights - the period of time when the sun does not crest the horizon, causing perpetual darkness - last from late November to mid-January. Due to the long, dark nights, you have a higher chance of seeing the northern lights during polar nights than during the general northern lights season (which overlaps with polar nights for about 1.5 months). It's easier to spot even faint northern lights during this time.
Winter Season: November - April
General Northern Lights Season: September - Early April
Polar Nights: Late November - Mid-January (best time to see the northern lights)
There is a lot to do in and around Tromsø during this magical season, and I'm here to break it down for you.
Visit a Reindeer Camp & Learn About Sámi Culture
Recommended Company: Tromsø Arctic Reindeer
Prices: $143-180 USD/person (day & evening tours; reindeer sledding (short & long), feeding & snowshoeing with reindeer)
When you're above the Arctic Circle in Norway, your trip won't be complete without spending time with the reindeer! While you can run into them in the wild and occasionally see them crossing roads, many reindeer live in large herds at reindeer camps. These reindeer are more docile and comfortable with human presence, allowing you to get much closer to them than in the wild.
There are multiple camps around Tromsø, all owned by the indigenous Sámi people of Arctic Europe who make a living herding reindeer. The Sámi are traditionally nomadic and would migrate with the animals according to the seasons, traveling further into the mountains during the summer and retreating back down during the winter.
Each camp has around 300 reindeer, ensuring it never gets overcrowded for tours. You have plenty of space to easily feed and pet them regardless of how many other people are present. Most popularly you can go reindeer sledding, where the animals slowly pull the sled on a scenic route through the snowy landscape surrounding the camp. While the main reason for visiting is of course to see the reindeer, most tours also include learning about the Sámi culture, enjoying traditional meals, listening to traditional songs and storytelling.
Snowshoeing
I combined my trip to a reindeer camp with a snowshoeing adventure through the same company 'Tromsø Arctic Reindeer,' but there are plenty of tours through other companies if you'd like to do it separately. There were probably 40-50 people at the reindeer camp and only 10 of us went snowshoeing.
The mountains of northern Norway are gorgeous and so scenic - the true definition of a winter wonderland. There are tours for all skill levels that allow you to safely explore the Norwegian terrain. You'll go over glowing white valleys, through snow-covered forests, and trek up mountains for an incredible panoramic view. There's also always a chance to spot some wildlife, including the Arctic Fox!
Dogsledding
Recommended Company: Arctic Adventure Tours
Price: Arctic Adventure Tours is $250 USD/person, but you can find other dogsledding tours for cheaper. I chose this one because it was one of the longest (80 minutes) with refreshments included.
Having a group of adorable, energetic dogs pull you through the snow on a sled is one of the more popular activities found in Norway. While the reindeer walk the sleds, the dogs run, making it a more adventurous endeavor. Dogsledding, often referred to as 'mushing', has been used as a mode of transportation for getting over the rough winter landscapes of the Arctic for thousands of years. Originating in Alaska and Siberia where there is a winter climate for most of the year, the popularity of using sled dogs eventually spread to many arctic areas including Canada, Greenland, Russia, Sweden, Finland and Norway.
The sled dogs are so friendly and have a crazy amount of energy. They love their job and get so excited - howling and barking - when they sense it’s time to go out. They actually love it so much that if you happen to stop the sled while on a run, they'll turn and stare at you with judgy eyes that say 'Why the heck are we stopping?'. That's when you know you have about one minute before they start howling again, impatiently eager to keep running!
There are two people per sled: one person controls both the sled's speed and the dogs (the musher), while the other sits in the sled and enjoys the scenic views. You get an opportunity to switch these roles multiple times, so don't worry - everyone gets a turn to mush!
Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) Chasing
Recommended Company: Arctic Circle Tours Tromsø
Prices: Arctic Circle Tours Tromsø is $175 USD/person, but typically between $100-200
How can I see the Northern Lights in Tromsø Norway?
If you want to see Northern Lights that are super vibrant and appear to 'dance' in the sky, you have to get away from the light pollution in the city center and go somewhere remote where it's very dark. The sky also has to be very clear - if you see stars you'll likely see the lights, but you have to be patient. Even if you have a car rental, I still recommend taking a Northern Lights tour with expert guides who know everything about the weather in northern Norway. It can be quite hard to find out on your own where the sky will be the clearest and which area is estimated to have the highest solar activity.
It is possible to see the northern lights from the downtown area of Tromsø (Tromsø Centrum), particularly during polar nights. I've seen them multiple times by the marina, some nights better and brighter than others, but nonetheless they weren't nearly as impressive as the lights I saw away from the city.
Northern Lights chase vs tour: What is the difference?
I highly recommend to go on a Northern Lights chase, as opposed to a Northern Lights tour. For tours, the guides have a few locations picked out in advance and take you to the one with the highest chance of clear skies. You'll then sit and wait for the lights to appear. If it ends up being pretty cloudy or otherwise bad weather, unfortunately you just won't see them. For chases, the guides will do everything it takes to find clear skies and are willing to drive as far as Finland or Sweden if necessary. This means that it could be fully overcast and snowing in Tromsø Centrum, but you can drive a few hours away and find clear skies that allow for incredible auroras.
Keep in mind that seeing the Northern Lights is never guaranteed, even with good weather. The guides are clear that they chase clear skies, not the aurora itself. Solar activity or intensity may be too low, and even if you do see the aurora it may not be as vibrant as you'd hoped. No one can control this, and though it's not the tour operators' fault, they typically offer a 50% discount on a second tour if you do not see it the first time. Make sure you book a tour (or chase them yourself) at the beginning of your trip so you have time to try again if it doesn't go as planned the first time.
I was so fortunate to see the most incredible aurora show on my first try. It was a very clear night, so we only had to drive about two hours outside of Tromsø Centrum. We could see every star in the sky, but the Northern Lights were not super vibrant nor dancing. After many hours of waiting, chatting, cooking hot dogs over a fire and hoping for the lights to improve, we finally had to accept the loss and started driving back.
About 10 minutes after leaving, we noticed something across the sky, pulled over and rushed out of the minivan. It was then that we saw the brightest green lights dancing rapidly and beautifully in the sky. Our tour guides explained how impressive and rare that kind of show is, and I'm so grateful to have had this experience. It truly is the most magical natural phenomenon that exists in the Arctic Circle!
Skiing
Skiing on a beautiful snowy mountain is such a fun way to spend the day in Tromsø. You can do cross-country skiing with a tour, which is very popular in Norway, or visit Tromsø Alpinpark to ski at a small resort. We opted for the latter.
A bus conveniently runs from Tromsø Centrum to the Alpinpark. The resort offers gorgeous views of the water and distant mountains as you ski down the slopes. There is a small building where you can rent equipment and buy lift passes, as well as a small lodge with a fireplace that serves a limited yet tasty menu including some really delicious hot chocolate. Though this resort is tiny, it has hills for beginners and very advanced skiers alike while offering snowboard and ski lessons on-site. If the weather has been too warm or rainy the resort may be closed, so be sure to check their website before visiting to ensure they're open.
Explore Tromsø Centrum
Tromsø is a beautiful & highly walkable city that's worth a wander. It's easy to get caught up on the big adventures while on an Arctic holiday in Norway, but exploring Tromsø Centrum needs to stay on your list of things you have to do!
There are a lot of places to see, and you may not be able to see it all, but these are the top options to choose from in & near Tromsø Centrum.
Tromsø Cathedral
Storgata (the main pedestrian street)
Tromsø Havn (marina)
Tromsø City Library & Archives
Polaria Museum
Pust Sauna (for a polar plunge)
Magic Ice Bar & Gallery
Porten til Ishavet (a beautiful art display next to the Tromsø bridge)
Arctic Cathedral (across the bridge, walkable from the center)
Fjellheisen Cable Car & Storsteinen Mountain (across the bridge, take a shuttle from the center)
TIPS: All tours typically sell out very fast, so you should book as far in advance as possible. Since there's a limited number of dogs and they cannot be overworked, dogsledding tours sell out first. The reindeer tours are second to sell out, and any Northern Lights experience tends to be last as there are many different companies offering tours/chases.
My best recommendation is to book tours that don't offer free cancellations on a platform such as 'GetYourGuide' rather than directly through the company's website. 'GetYourGuide' always offers free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance. This is extremely convenient as the weather in Tromsø is very unpredictable and can change on short notice. If there's a forecast for rain, snow or heavy clouds, it's nice to be able to cancel a tour and reschedule for better weather.
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